The Grocer - Fine Food and Wine
Email NewsletterWinter 2007
Global Warming Too Slow
In this Issue
It’s snowing in Victoria as we write our third winter newsletter. Out in Daylesford where Country Cuisine hand make our favourite cranberry and caramelised onion chutney, they’ll be lucky if it reaches 5 degrees this week. And it’s not much warmer here in WA (well it doesn’t seem like it). Never before has the little electric heater had so much use. And I thought the planet was warming up! To counter the chilly days and icy nights we’ve dished up some really hot information to keep you warm until spring arrives.
So, what food adventures are to be had this cold August? If you are keen to venture out and try something different, rug up and check out the new places opening up in Perth. There are a number of young enthusiastic foodies who have started businesses recently - both retail outlets and places to eat. Judging by their popularity, their passion for great food is shared by their customers.
Below we also cover a few events coming up on Perth’s food calendar, including our own Italian wine evening at Maurizio’s Restaurant in North Perth. If you’d prefer to stay in by the fire, you can read about a couple of hot Italian reds now available (red wine, that is). And, on our never ending search to understand the birthplace of all the products we distribute, this month we cover the complex parmigianno regianno and look back at mustard’s history.
Whether you’re staying in or heading out this winter, be sure to enjoy a good hot meal because our little part of the planet will be warm again all too soon.
Tastefully Yours
Louise Miller
Hot Winter Events in Perth
The Grocer Sponsors Zaccagnini Wine Evening at Maurizio’s Restaurant. If you want to kick start your journey into Italian wine, start with the Zaccagnini range that The Grocer has brought to WA. Gather some friends and book a place at the Zaccagnini Evening at Maurizio’s Restaurant in North Perth on Thursday 30 August.
Angelo Ruzzi from Zaccagnini Wines in Abruzzo will be a guest at the dinner, where well known Italian chef Maurizio Di Ciano (who also happens to hail from Abruzzo) has designed a five course regional menu to match the Zaccagnini wines. You’ll be treated to four of Zaccagnini’s wines, including the superb San Clemente Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. It’s not often you get the opportunity to sample sublime Italian wine while hearing a little about how the wine is made.
The five course dinner with matching wines is $99.00 per person. Book directly with Maurizio’s on 9228 1646.
Slow Food Perth Speeds Up with New Website. If you’d like to know more about the Perth convivia of the Slow Food Movement, check out their new website at www.slowfoodperth.org.au. You can sign up for their newsletter and get details on the upcoming events such as Kids on the Loose (a celebration of goat milk cheese with Gabriella Kervella), and The Articulate Artichoke, a workshop with John Maiorana.
Must Wine Bar – Santée or Salud? During September at Must Wine Bar you can take your pick between a cassoulet evening matched to Charles Melton Barossa reds (Thurs 20 Sept) or a rowdy Spanish tapas Sunday lunch (Sun 9 Sept) complete with rosy rosés and earthy Riojas. www.must.com.au
Regional Food & Wine Discovery Weekends – Pemberton Breakaway Cottages. Holidays are made memorable by the discovery of hidden treasures and tasting new delights. Sophie Zalokar, West Australian chef and food writer has created the perfect holiday for food travellers by designing weekend journeys to Pemberton.
If you can gather a group of 18 culinary adventurers who are serious about the delights of discovering regional food and wine, Sophie can design a weekend journey of visiting farms and cellar doors in the Pemberton region and provide meals, showcasing the region’s seasonal best. To find out more, contact Sophie on 9776 1580 or go to ww.pembreak.com.au.
Patrice’s Table - Cooking Classes at the Novotel Langley Hotel. Patrice Falantin, Executive Chef at the Novotel Langley Hotel holds cooking classes every 3rd Wednesday of the month. You will prepare, cook and enjoy a three course meal under Patrice’s guidance. During the 4 hour class you will learn new skills and experience exquisite local produce. The next class is August 15. Call 9221 1200 to book.
Matters of Taste to the Rescue. Do you have friends coming for dinner next weekend but don’t have a clue what to cook? How does beef fillet with salsa verde and warm potatoes followed by little pear vol au vents sound? Delicious. Whether you are looking for a foolproof entertaining menu or simply a new dish to cook during the hectic working week, a class at Matters of Taste will inspire you. The classes run during the day or evening. Call 9319 1097 or go to www.mattersoftaste.com.au
Mundaring Truffle Festival. To celebrate the success of Western Australia’s black truffle harvest, the inaugural Mundaring Truffle Festival is being held between 1 - 5 August. There is a range of activities from master classes, free talks, dinners, walks and a market on the Sunday. To find out more go to www.mundaringtrufflefestival.com
Varietal is the Spice of Life
Australia produces some exceptional wines. Most of us have a favourite shiraz, merlot or cab sav and could easily name half a dozen Margaret River producers of the ubiquitous classic dry white.
However, along with an increasing interest in global cuisine, it seems more people want to learn about the different varieties of wine available from around the world. Many diners have become more adventurous (gastronomically at least), and are happy to take a risk and try a wine they’ve never heard of.
Even the wine makers in Australia are becoming more adventurous by choosing to grow lesser known grape varieties. Well respected wine makers such as Coriole (SA) and Pizzini (Vic) planted varieties such as sangiovese, nebiolo, barbera and pinot gricio many years ago and have been producing fine wine from these grapes with much success. This has encouraged other growers to start experimenting. These Italian varieties are well suited to our hot dry climate and produce styles of wine which match the kind of foods we enjoy.
In fact, that’s what Italian wine is all about – matching with food. The majority of Italian wine distributed by The Grocer is sold to restaurants because its tannins and fruit are finely balanced so as not to overpower, for example, a delicately sautéed pigeon breast or get lost under a hearty meal such as a plate of braised beef cheek.
Lovers of big fruity Australian red wines will sometimes feel that Italian wine is a little dry or austere for their taste, but this is usually because they are drinking the wine on its own. Whereas a rich, fruity Australian red often overpowers even a well charred bbq’d sausage, a well made Barolo or a fine Chianti Classico will really come alive when enjoyed with food and will actually enhance the flavours of a meal.
If you are keen to venture out and add a bit of ‘varietal’ to your life, we currently wholesale Italian wines to restaurants including Balthazar, Jacksons, Star Anise, Must Wine Bar and Maurizio’s. If you are looking for something tasty for consumption at home head to La Vigna in Menora and The Wine Store in East Fremantle.
On a final note, you don’t need to be an MW (Master of Wine) to impress your guests when dining out - simply ask the sommelier to recommend a wine to suit your choice of food. The most successful directors always employ experienced people to help them do a great job. So don’t feel that you need to be a wine expert in order to enjoy the perfect food and wine experience.
Please note that The Grocer is only licensed to wholesale wine. For retail purchases please contact La Vigna or The Wine Store.
Hot New Products
Pommery Peppercorn Mustard – Pommery mustard has been in demand for over three hundred years and we think this new addition to the range of wholegrain mustards will also stand the test of time. Like the original, it’s available in the ceramic pot, but now with a new plastic seal, rather than the difficult to open wax and cork.
Greg Malouf Turkish Delight – Lokum, or Turkish Delight as we know it, is notoriously difficult to make. The Greg Malouf team have perfected it in a few flavours – rose, orange blossom and mint – with more flavours being released in the future. The pieces are a little smaller than usual which 
make them the perfect size to serve as petits fours or to simply pop into your mouth for an afternoon treat.
Vincotto Cream (original and fig) – Gianni Calogiuri, makers of traditional and original Vincotto® have created an amazing product they are calling Vincotto® Cream. Already a reduction of cooked grape must, the original Vincotto® is reduced even further to create a thick, velvety syrup that has a complex and lingering grapey flavour. Use it on desserts, fish and to finish braised beef. Unlike balsamic glaze, it is sugar free.
LAZZARIS Blood Orange Mustard Sauce and Pear Mustard Sauce – While a traditional condiment in Italy mustard fruits, or ‘mostarda’ in Italian, are relatively unknown in Australia. Lazzaris make the traditional Mostarda di Cremoni (whole mustard fruit condiment) but have added to the range with a Blood Orange and Pear Mustard sauce. The candied fruits are coarsely crushed and mixed with a sweet mustard syrup creating a delicious sweet but pungent condiment that can be used as widely as your imagination allows.
Rangoon Racquet 
Club Onion Marmalade and Vindaloo Sauce – We’ve been addicted to The Rangoon Racquet Club’s range of English style curry sauces for some time now, but these two new additions to the range are by far our favourites. Lovers of authentic hot vindaloo will not be disappointed. Anyone who doesn’t tolerate chilli only needs to add a few dollops of Meredith Dairy’s sheep’s milk yoghurt with a healthy sized spoonful of the wonderful Rangoon Racquet Club Onion Marmalade. Be warned, they are addictive.
Gluten Free Pasta with Flavour – Those who have enjoyed the gluten free fettuccini from Queensland company Pasta Riviera will be pleased to hear they have released some flavoured gluten free pastas. Try the spinach, garden herb or cracked pepper.
Bowles Veal Glace – is finally back in stock! After a two year hiatus, we’ve finally got hold of fresh stock (pardon the pun) of this delicious veal reduction. A glace is a meat stock that has been reduced to 1/5 its original volume. It is traditionally used as a flavour enhancer for sauces, gravies and sautéed dishes. Grab a jar before it runs out.
PW Spice Rubs – The last minute cook's best friend, Peter Watson has created an easy to use range of dry spice rubs for any kind of meat you’re cooking. Simply sprinkle on and cook (grill, fry, roast). Four blends are available – Pork, Lamb, Chicken and Beef.
Mustard Magic
Mustard has been around for thousands of years and is widely used by people all over the world from the Chinese to the Greeks and even the ancient Egyptians. In fact the first known recipe for prepared mustard dates back to 1336, making it the oldest prepared condiment in the world.
Around the world today you’ll find mustard alongside German sausages, French game, Italian cold meats and English roast beef. But many of us in Australia aren’t familiar with its complex, pungent and versatile flavours.
Sometimes called ‘prepared’ mustard, to distinguish it from dry mustard or mustard seeds, it is a yellowish paste made by grinding any variety of mustard seeds and mixing them with a liquid. Mixing the ground seeds with cold water causes a chemical reaction to take place releasing an enzyme which gives mustard its heat and pungency (hot water kills the enzyme). However, the seeds can be mixed with any liquid. The original recipe apparently called for vinegar but it is also common to use wine which produces a milder, earthy tasting paste.
It is believed the name comes from the word ‘must’ and was adopted when the French altered the original recipe by substituting the vinegar for grape must. But like many aspects of history, this fact is hotly (pardon the pun) debated.
Types of Mustard
American – Often called ballpark mustard, this is made from white mustard seeds and coloured with turmeric, making a mild but bright yellow condiment used frequently on hot dogs.
English – Also made from the white mustard seed but these are soaked in water before milling, creating a very hot, smooth condiment. Usually called Hot English Mustard.
Dijon – Made in Dijon, France with black or brown seeds which are blended with verjuice (juice of unripe grapes) instead of water which produces a milder, smoother mustard.
Meaux – Meaux is a village in France that is as well known for its mustard as Dijon. Mustard from Meaux differs from Dijon because it is made from crushed seeds, rather than ground giving it a crunchy texture. It is made with vinegar rather than verjuice and the flavour is usually mild.
Pommery is the most famous mustard from Meaux and it has been served at the tables of French Kings since 1632. The secret recipe belonged to the religious order of Meaux and was passed on to the Pommery family in 1760 who, to this day, closely guard its recipe. It is a deliciously grainy mustard that goes beautifully with ripe white mould cheeses.
German – Ranges from sweet to hot and uses a range of additional spices for flavour.
Sweet Mustards or Honey Mustard – Usually sweetened with 
brown sugar or honey, these mustards can be made from any mustard seed, but are usually smooth and mild. Peter Watson’s Imperial Russian Mustard and the Honeycup Mustard from Canada both fall into this category.
Wholegrain Mustard – Again, can be made from any variety of seed, but whole grain retains some of the seeds whole, giving the mustard a crunchy texture. They are usually mild.
Mustard Fruits (mostarda di fruitta) – An Italian tradition of mixing candied fruit with mustard syrup to create an amazing sweet and savoury condiment used traditionally on cold meat and cheese.
Best Uses
Good mustard is extremely versatile. Its complex flavour can be added to a variety of dishes to add a little pungency or simply to bring out the flavour of the main ingredients. Of course the main use for mustard is as a condiment to hot and cold meat, often in sandwiches. It is also a key ingredient and emulsifier in French salad dressings. Try these ideas:
• Smear a little honey mustard on the skin of salmon before frying for a sweet spicy crust.
• Mix a dessertspoon of wholegrain mustard with sour cream and mayonnaise for a potato salad dressing.
• Use the syrup from mustard fruits to glaze a leg of ham (you can use the fruits to serve with the ham).
• Add a little wholegrain mustard to a gravy that is to be served with sausages.
We even came across a recipe for Pommery Mustard ice cream but we’re not in any hurry to try it. However you use your mustard, it should keep you warm through these cold months.
Back to top.Hot New Outlets
Restaurants
- The Pony Club, Spanish style tapas Bar, Mt Lawley.
- Restaurant Amusé, Modern European, opening soon in East Perth.
- The Oxford in Leederville has a new chef (Michelle Forbes) and is turning out great quality bistro style pub grub.
- Dear Friends in the Swan Valley is under new management.
- Bistro Felix Restaurant is a revamp of the old Atlantic Bar and Grill in Subiaco. It looks great and offers a significantly improved menu.
- Red Cabbage Food and Wine, started by ex Halo Restaurant chef, Scott O’Sullivan.
Retail Outlets
- Mondo’s Meats in Inglewood are expanding their shop with more gourmet treats soon available.
- Alimento, Dempster St, Esperance.
- Reeves On Campbell, Albany.
- Mill Point Road Fresh Food Market, South Perth.
- Fig Jam, Gourmet delicatessen in The Mezz, Mt Hawthorn.
- Fancy Pantry, Moreing Rd, Attadale.
- Gourmet Centro, Melville Central Complex, Melville.
I Was Wondering...How do I Choose a Good Parmesan?
Australians have come a long way in our appreciation of parmesan cheese since the days of the sour smelling powder that came in the green can and was shaken liberally (usually with resistance from the younger diners) over spaghetti bolognaise.
A true Italian parmesan cheese, or parmigiano reggiano, is recognised as one of the finest cheeses in the world and couldn’t be further from the grated variety we grew up with.
Where the Name Comes From. Parmesan is the French name, also used in English, for the Italian parmigiano reggiano. While the production of parmigiano reggiano is strictly controlled by the Italian Parmesan Cheese Consortium, (Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano) which was set up in 1934 to ensure the quality of the cheese was consistent, outside Europe the word parmesan has been used by makers of many kinds of hard, granular cheeses.
How it’s Made. Authentic parmigiano reggiano is an unpressed cheese made only from unpasteurised, semi skimmed milk from cows fed grass in summer and hay in winter. The curds are cooked and drained before the soft wheels are placed in salt brine for three weeks to harden. The firm 30-40kg wheels are then aged for anything from 12 months to four years. After 12 months the cheeses are graded by the Consortium and if they pass, are given the Consortium seal.
What to look for. When looking for a good quality parmigiano, ensure that the wheel bears the Consortium’s distinctive oval stamp, along with the month and year of production. Only those cheeses which after 12 months have passed a quality test will bear the stamp. Cheese considered the highest quality will be graded ‘extra’, indicating it has passed an additional quality test at 18 months.
All parmigiano is aged for a minimum of 12 months. ‘Vecchio’ refers to a cheese aged for two years, ‘stavecchio’ for three years and ‘stravechiones’ has been aged for four years.
Try to buy cheese cut fresh from the wheel (this way you can taste if first) and only buy what you need. Fresh is best. A well aged parmigiano will have a grainy texture, a sweet and delicate flavour with no bitter after taste.
How to keep it. According to the Consorzio’s website, keeping your cheese in aluminium foil is perfectly acceptable. If you want to keep it as fresh as possible you can also wrap it in clean cotton cloth and then plastic. Or keep it in its wax paper, and then foil over the top.
How best to enjoy it. In Italy good aged parmigiano is savoured simply on its own, either as an hors d’ouvre or at the end of a meal. Serve at room temperature, drizzled with balsamic vinegar or honey. Accompaniments such as fresh fruit, preserved quince or nuts go beautifully too.
Use younger parmesan for grating over pasta, added to pesto or sprinkled over a gratin of parsnips or cauliflower.
For more information go to www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
Warming Up to Local Shopping
There is a scent of change in the air in Perth, with nearly a dozen good quality new gourmet food outlets opening in the city over the past 12 months. For years shoppers dedicated to local fresh produce and better quality ingredients have frequented places such as The Boatshed Markets, Fresh Provisions, Claremont Fresh, Herdsman Fresh Essentials and Mr Fresh Carine to pick up items that the big supermarkets have failed to offer.
Perhaps the increasing number of these smaller locally owned outlets will encourage us to revert to the old European method of shopping where we pick up only what we need for the next couple of days, rather than the American trend of buying huge quantities of food at one place.
We spoke to a couple of people who have recently turned their passion into a thriving food business to find out their shopping habits and where they thought we’d be shopping in the future.
Liquorice Gourmet Food. Driven by the desire to provide shoppers in the Northern suburbs with access to a range of good quality food products in bulk, Bronwyn started her company Liquorice Gourmet Food in Carine Glades Shopping Centre in 2005. Her success there led her to open another outlet in The Mezz in Mount Hawthorn in early 2007.
Since opening Liquorice Bronwyn has noticed a surge in demand for locally produced products which she believes will continue. She would love to see people venture out from their supermarket and support local butchers and other smaller, quality driven food suppliers. She believes that the encouragement we’re getting from celebrity chefs to do this will also help this trend. Bronwyn likes to shop locally in Carine.
Beaufort St Merchant. Angie Taylor and her brother Scott opened Beaufort St Merchant in October 2005 after looking for an outlet for their cleanskin range. The old “Benjamins World Gourmet Centre" site became available but was much larger than they needed. As it was in such a great spot, they decided to combine food and wine together and provide a one stop shop.
Beaufort St Merchant is now a full service liquor store, gourmet food outlet and café, with giftware and food hampers also available.
Angie and Scott have noticed an increasing trend in people wanting to try new things. Angie would love to see more people asking questions about the food and wine they sell. “Food and wine are exciting subjects. We should be discussing, arguing and sharing our experiences and opinions more regularly.”
With many of us working longer hours, Angie predicts that more and more people will be looking for wholesome, tasty, quick meals to pick up on the way home and this is something they hope to provide at The Beaufort St Merchant in the future. She loves shopping at The Boatshed and Herdsman Fresh Essentials.
In our next edition we feature Jeremy’s Exclusive Butchery in Swanbourne and Fig Jam in Mount Hawthorn.